Back to the River Cruise - the wonderful Abbey of Melk, Austria

Back on the morning of 8th June, we had the most interesting time visiting the extraordinary, historic Abbey of Melk in Melk, Lower Austria.

The abbey is a vast complex situated on a big rocky clifftop overlooking the town and the Danube river. The vistas from there were superb - forests, rivers and large areas of vineyards and market gardens growing products such as strawberries. Its most memorable features that we were allowed to see, however, were its vast library and its church, which was built in the baroque style, both of which contained wonderful frescos. 

We were extremely lucky to have a very passionate, knowledgeable local guide show us the key features of this Benedictine abbey and tell us some of the stories behind it. 

The abbey was founded a few years before 1100 AD, when the then emperor of Austria gave one of his castles to the Benedictine monks. Within the next century they not only established a monastic school at the abbey, but also became renowned for their extensive library, especially for its extensive collection of manuscripts and for its production of manuscripts, not to mention its frescoes. Now its library houses millions of the most beautiful leather-bound books, and countless medieval manuscripts, including music manuscripts. It is little wonder that there is a reference to the library in Umberto Uco’s ‘Name of the Rose’.  They have now started a project in which experts are starting to digitise the library’s collection. Given the sheer size of the collection, that process will take years and years. 

The abbey was so famed for its school and library and its academic stature that it remained intact when Emperor Joseph II closed many of the abbeys in Austria between about 1780 and 1790. Joseph was the eldest son of Empress Maria Theresa, and also the older brother of Marie Antoinette. Like his mother, Joseph had a great social conscience and believed that religious institutions should be serving their local community by educating its children and giving medical and other care. So he issued an edict that he would close all those institutions that failed to do so.  Our guide told us she believed the fact he cared for the poor is why Joseph himself did not come under attack during the period of the French revolution. His young sister was not so lucky . . . but then, apparently she was not so concerned for the people. (Having said that, I do not know enough history to make sweeping statements about his sister.) 

The abbey also survived other threats during the Napoleonic wars and WW2. For a while its school and other assets were seized, but now they have been returned to the abbey and apparently the school now has about 900 students. We were not permitted to see the school, however, as you would expect.

The buildings we saw were not part of the original buildings. What can be seen now is the abbey that was built between 1702 and 1736.  The outside of the church was being restored whilst we were there. We were not permitted to take photos inside the abbey. My few photos from the outside will give you some idea, however, of how stately and impressive this abbey is.

I took this photo in the entrance of the museum part of the abbey before discovering you were not to take photos inside.

The entrance archway into the main courtyard. 

The top of the archway, showing when the building was completed.

One of the lovely statues at the entrance archway.

The main entrance into the abbey.

One of the modern frescoes that was added during more recent renovations. There are four of these, one facing east, one facing west, and so on.

Another view of the courtyard.

One of the views from the balcony outside the museum and reception room.

Another view from the balcony.