Petra is Greek for rock. And certainly the journey to Petra and Petra itself, both the village and the ancient site, have well earned that name. Our bus climbed high up on the mountain range and we saw some incredible vistas. It reminded me of the Grand Canyon in the US in some parts, and the Nullarbor Plain in Australia in others, though without the variety of colours found in those two places. We saw some small areas where wheat had been planted, although the green stalks were much shorter than the wheat in Australia at the same stage of growth, according to an Australian wheat farmer and his wife who happened to be on the bus. Here and there we saw small flocks of sheep and at one place I saw a few cattle. Jordan receives very little rain; its main water source is underground springs. The big basin of water that supplies much of its water is shared with neighbouring countries.
To see the incredible carvings on the hike through the narrow, long chasm leading into the ancient site, and on the most well-known of the sculptured tombs at the site, commonly referred to as the 'Treasury', as well as the amphitheatre, was a breathtaking experience and worth the difficult walk.
The chasm, which starts about a mile from the Visitors Centre, is a mile long and at places only 3 m wide but never more than about 5 m. Known as the 'Siq', tall sandstone cliffs surround it, and it slopes downward all the way, ending opposite the Treasury. Some tombs could be seen along this route. One interesting feature was the continuous channels that had been carved into the rock face about a metre above the ground to bring water into the ancient city. Apparently the city had splendid gardens and a fountain as a result of this abundant water supply, the source of which was natural springs. While there were many, many tombs carved into the high cliffs that encircled the ancient city, apparently the people lived in the space between all the cliffs amongst the gardens, but their dwellings have all disappeared, no doubt partly due to the earthquake but also due to the ravages of time. As it is, it is amazing that so much detail of the carvings remains, given the sands that have blown against them for many centuries.
If you saw the film ‘Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade’, which was screened on the ship the day before we arrived in Jordan, you would have seen the magnificent columns and so on of the 'Treasury'. What is less well-known is the symbolism they represented. For example, there were 12 columns to represent the months of the year, 31 carved roses to represent the days of the month and 7 arches to represent the days of the week. It was once thought that the treasures of the city were kept there, but unlike in the movie, behind that facade there is only a small cave. All evidence points to it being a grand tomb built to honour someone who had brought so much success to the city.
In front of the 'Treasury', it was like a market place, with tourists milling around taking photos, Bedouins going from person to person trying to persuade us to buy silver bracelets and postcards, market stalls, and horses and carts, donkeys and camels available for rides, all the animals in the charge of very persuasive Bedouins. By this stage it was very hot and there was little shade. I saw our intriguing Japanese passenger racing off on a camel, though, with a very pleased look on his face!
On our group walked, however, still downwards, over the very rocky sands with some paving and more stalls. The main point of interest was the large amphitheatre, built along Roman lines and yet different in some of its design features. Our very informative guide pointed out that while a Roman theatre had a special place for the Emperor and his entourage to enter and sit, here the rulers entered and sat with the rest of their people.
Whilst we were admiring this huge outdoor structure, many children were climbing their way to the top. How I envied their energy, not to mention that of the many tourists who were climbing up the nearby 850 steps to the clifftop. In fact there were several sets of steps around the site.
After viewing more amazing carvings, and seeing the Bedouin village in the distance, it was time to return to modern Petra for a very late lunch. By this stage I was very tired and hot, and I knew I had about a 3-mile all in the heat, all uphill, over rocky ground. At this age we were told to walk back on our own, the clear implication being if you take too long, you would not have time for any lunch. It was now 1.45 pm and we had not eaten since 7 am. I gritted my teeth and plodded on, knowing by now I was not nearly fit enough. By the time I emerged from the 'Sik', my face was puce, perspiration was trickling into and stinging my eyes, I was breathless and I wondered how on earth I was going to make it. At this point one of the Bedouins persuaded me to mount a horse to go up to the Visitors Centre, a journey of about a mile in the heat up quite a steep slope. I told him I was not a rider and very frightened of falling off. He assured me he would lead the horse all the way and it was a small and gentle horse. I looked up the path and decided that it was the only way I was going to make it. But, my dear family and friends, this was a challenge like you would not believe. Thank goodness nobody was there filming it or it would have made a comedy festival! I have no flexibility in my legs anymore. Already I have had my grandsons laughing their heads off at me trying to get up from the floor if I have been sitting there playing with them. I have to crawl over to the nearest chair and with great difficulty use that to raise myself up.
Even though the horse was placed next to a low wall, it took two strong Bedouins to lift my leg and get it over the horse’s back! I then held on very firmly, nearly going over a couple of times. But getting me off again was even worse. The poor man had to lift me up by himself and drop me onto the wall. My shoe came off in the process and it was a wonder I did not land flat on my back, when I plopped down very heavily But he was very gracious about it and well and truly earned his money, I can tell you!
After that, I still had about another 500 m of climbing to the hotel where we were to have lunch. Only my determination got me there. I arrived in a dreadful state - my face was like it was in Bangkok, swollen, red and wet with perspiration, and my lungs were heaving. I am only starting to feel like myself now. But I did have some lunch, albeit at 3 pm and in haste. The lady sitting opposite me looked just the same as me. Both of us looked at those who seemed totally unaffected by the heat and effort with amazement.
We got back to the ship at 7 pm, where waiters were lined up outside the ship to greet us with glasses of champagne and of orange juice. Clearly our marathon effort was being acknowledged. Never has a chilled orange juice tasted so good!
Other passengers, I might add, travelled to Wadi Rum, of Lawrence of Arabia fame. That film is being screened tonight. I gather it was a fascinating and picturesque site.
All in all, I strongly recommend travel to Dubai (which our witty guide at the time called “Do Buy”), Oman and Jordan. They are really interesting and safe places that offer many wonderful things to see and experience. But you really need to be fit to enjoy Petra to the full. My walking around and around the ship and climbing stairs as often as I could were not nearly enough to prepare me, as I discovered.
Our pirate danger is now over and apparently the outbreak of gastro is just about contained. Some people two cabins from me are still in quarantine though, which means special attendants servicing their cabin with masks and special clothes on and everything from the cabin (linen and food trays) sealed and bagged.
The photos are taking a long time to upload, so I will post the rest later.
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| Family tomb along the route. |
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| The sandstone cliffs along the 'Siq'. |
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| Our guide pointing out the water channels along the 'Siq', and carvings of camels' feet. |
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