Yesterday morning we sailed into Nha Trang in Vietnam. This was a very different coastal town to Phu My. The ship anchored in the middle of a very picturesque bay and we were taken ashore in tender boats. As we waited to go on our various tours, we could see people inching their way across the bay in gondolas suspended from very long cables high above the water. It was very misty and raining but still very warm, and so of course the air was very humid.
It was not surprising to discover that this is a tourist town, full of modern hotels and very attractive houses. Fortuitously, this time the guide with whom about twenty of us spent our time was very fluent in English, and so perhaps the best aspect of our 4-5 hour tour was learning so much about Vietnam from a local’s perspective.
The overall planning and management of this town was given to a Japanese company, and it showed. The main roads were beautiful landscaped, with incredible topiary and flowers and trees lining the streets and along the centre of the road. Along the landscaped beach there were lounges under wide umbrellas, and tourists could spend all day relaxing on them at very little cost, with free WiFi and many establishments serving drinks and food. Little wonder that wealthier Vietnamese invest in this place and have their own residences here, and that the place is visited not only by cruise ships but also by people flying in from Australia, China, Russia, and so on, at times that suit them to ‘escape’ from home. We were told that whilst we were there, there were very few Chinese and Russian tourists around.
Of course, there has been a social cost to modernising a coastal town to attract tourists. Property prices soared and many of the poorer residents have needed to move into the surrounding countryside. We still saw pockets of the kinds of dwellings present in Phu My and were taken through a local produce market, which was not at all pleasant to see, or smell, I must confess. There was a lot of water and mud underfoot.
One very unforgettable experience we had was visiting a Buddhist temple that also served as an orphanage and school. Apparently having children out of wedlock is against the law, so the children born in these circumstances are often given to the local Buddhist priests to raise. We saw very little children with much of their hair shaved off and dressed in brown baggy clothes, who were sweeping floors in what seemed to be a communal dining room, or sitting in informal classrooms having lessons. The women looking after them, including female Buddhist monks, seemed very gentle and kind. One class made a show of singing the alphabet song.
As well, there were many children from poor families dressed in blue, with unshaven heads, some looking no more than two years old, who were there to be cared for and to have some schooling. Parents have to fully pay for their children’s education in Vietnam, so those who cannot afford to do so either choose this option or keep their children at home to help them earn money.
At least all the children were receiving care, but we were very saddened by what we saw and by the fact that one tourist bus after another arrived at this small centre, as that is a source of income for them. Donations are only accepted in the small but ornate temple in the middle of the grounds.
Another social issue that is experienced across the world is that the children of the farmers who supply the rice etc., do not want to follow in their footsteps but want to further their education or get jobs in nearby or distant towns. Farmers also struggle with various big weather events and ensuing floods. As part of our tour we went into the nearby countryside to a small village. The backdrop of hills and the lush green of the ripening rice was lovely to see, though unfortunately it bucketed down for most of the time we were there. Nevertheless, we ran through the rain to visit a local home, which was immaculately kept by a little, dignified 76-year old widow, whose house showed her dedication to her ancestors with incense, lights, and so forth. It was fascinating to learn of their customs and to learn how women are now given far greater equality than once was the case.
All in all, it was a wonderful day, which ended in a visit to a large art gallery where we saw women doing the most exquisite embroidery.
Tomorrow we arrive in Hong Kong, where sadly almost all of the delightful friends I have made are disembarking. But at least some of us will remain in contact.
I have been having a lot of technical difficulties uploading my photos, but these two were taken at the Buddhist temple and orphanage. I will post the others in the next entry.
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