A day in Sabah (North Borneo)

Yesterday I spent the most wonderful day in Sabah, otherwise known as North Borneo. Our tour guide was exceptional. As we completed the 2-hour drive from the port of Kota Kinabalu up to the UNESCO World Heritage site, Kinabalu Park, on Mount Kinabalu, we learned so much about the fascinating history and the political, cultural and social landscape of this country, and her fears and hopes for her country, that my head was almost spinning. 

When we reached the park after the long winding drive and spectacular vistas, we were now at just over 1500 m above sea level, and could see even more clearly the clouds around the granite peak (4094 m) and waterfalls running down its slopes from the previous night’s heavy downpour. Whilst this meant that our steep trek through tropical forest involved walking through puddles of water and over slippery rocks, at least it was cool, unlike the steamy sauna-like conditions at Airley Beach. The walk was incredibly challenging, with steps that were so high and steep that I physically could not lift my legs high enough to climb them. I would not have managed the approximately 2 km walk without falling, if it were not for our tour guide. She was very strong and steady, and held my hand almost the whole way to ensure I did not, pulling me up the impossibly high and slippery steps. (Most of the other trekkers had friends or spouses helping them.) She was simply wonderful and I was extremely grateful.    

On the walk we saw beautiful mosses, ferns, lichens, vines, little streams and an occasional orchid. Apparently November is the time to see all the orchids in their full splendour.  So many of the plants apparently have medicinal properties, and it was really pleasing to learn the steps the government of this area is taking to preserve them and the forests, and to replant the trees that naturally grow in an area to rehabilitate land that has been grabbed for farming and planting palm trees to produce palm oil.

All in all, this was a great and challenging adventure that left me with an appreciation of these gentle and dignified people who accept and respect each others’ religious beliefs and cultural practises, and concern for the poverty I also witnessed along the way, as evidenced by the many very run-down houses and shops that were in stark contrast with some new high rise apartments and hotels in the town.