York Part 1

After our time at Kensington Palace, we set off early the next morning to York, this time by train, whilst our coach driver drove there with our luggage (after dropping us off at the station). This allowed us more time to explore York before we met our local guide, who was to take us on a walking tour of York for a couple of hours. Even so, as usual, the hour or so we had was not enough. We basically had to make a choice between getting some lunch in a cafe or seeing inside the famous York Cathedral, which was our meeting point. I am afraid to say that our rumbling stomachs and, more importantly, our desire to try the famous ‘Betty’s tea room’, won the day for my companions and I. 

 Anyhow, we started off at one of London’s most historic stations, King’s Cross Station, which I have to say was far more attractive than any of the other major, very busy stations of London that I have used - that is, London Waterloo Station, London Victoria Station, London Euston Station, Marylebone Station and St Pancras Station (the station for the Eurostar). Moreover, to our delight, it had a tribute to Harry Potter and Platform 9 3/4. Coming into the brick wall was part of a trolley, with a long line of delighted children and adults waiting to be officially photographed pushing the trolley into the wall. I managed to photograph one child doing so, but cannot publish it of course. And naturally, right next to that was a Harry Potter shop, full of people eager to buy memorabilia of that famous series. Though I only had five minutes, I succumbed to that myself, for the sake of my grandsons. They now can eat some of the ‘dreadful’ sweets Ron’s twin brothers used to sell to their mates whilst on the train to their wizard school. 

I had read and enjoyed the very imaginative, powerful historical novelsThe Pillars of the Earth and World Without End by the Welsh author Ken Follett. These novels were followed by movies of the same name. They included stories about York, its cathedral and the bishop and aristocracy who ruled over the local villagers and peasants, so I was really looking forward to seeing the cathedral. Indeed, these novels sparked an interest in cathedrals that were built in medieval times, just as the wonderful Cadfael stories sparked an interest in medieval abbeys. 

The famous ‘York Minster’ certainly was an imposing, very old structure. Worshippers have come to the cathedral for over 700 years. It houses more medieval stained glass than anywhere else in Britain. 

We noticed that the stones and columns have been worn away to quite an extent. Fortunately, because of its real history and after a lot of lobbying, applying for funding, and hard work, the cathedral is being restored. One great strength of this work is that local people have been trained in the skills needed, including stonemasonry and working with stained glass using the same techniques that were originally used. But, as our guide pointed out, such were the incredible skills and dedication of the original craftsmen, who were paid very little and worked very long hours, no-one can match the speed at which they worked or their skills. The restoration work is taking years and costing millions. 

Next to the cathedral was a statue dedicated to Constantine the Great, the Roman Emperor who ruled over York in the 4th century AD. Constantine was unique in that he did not force his Roman gods on the people but instead gave them freedom of religion. He was eventually converted to Christianity. It seems he fully deserved being honoured in York for all this time.

We saw a lot of evidence of medieval times, including the wall and gateways around the old city, and the ruins of a round fortress on a hill. Very sad to say, that fortress has a dark history. Like many other places, including in Europe, the plague swept through the city and the Jewish citizens were blamed and attacked. In this city they were herded into the fortress and burned to death. I gather that to this day Jewish people refuse to return there to live. And with such an atrocity perpetrated against them, who can blame them? 

I would add that the remains of Viking occupation also have been discovered not far from the fortress. The Jorvik Viking Centre recreates Viking times based on the archeological discoveries in the region, and uses animatronics to bring Viking characters to life. But I am afraid I was simply too tired to walk any further that day. (Walking over cobblestones is much more tiring than walking over smooth ground.) Those of my companions who did go, however, said it was really worthwhile. 

Kings Cross Station.

The old brick wall inside Kings Cross Station leading to the platforms is on the right. The Harry Potter entrance to the 'magical' platform is built into this wall. 

Walking into the old town of York from the station.

Nearing York Minster, which is on the far right.

The front of York Minster, from where we began our walking tour.

Part of the medieval wall and one of the main gates into the old town.

Another side of the cathedral.

The statue to Constantine the Great, near a part of this huge cathedral undergoing restoration.

The tribute to this benevolent Roman ruler on the wall near the statue.

The rear of the cathedral, where extensive, painstaking work is being carried out on the stained glass window, which is the largest window of this kind in Britain.

The street behind the cathedral.

The old fortress.