I am writing this on the train from Toronto to Jasper. Outside there are thick forests of a great variety of trees, most appearing to be in the cyprus and pine families. Some are starting to turn golden as it is the start 0f the Canadian autumn, and all have a rich golden glow as the sun is setting. But there are patches of dead trees as well, some in quite large clumps and others scattered amongst the healthy trees. It is hard to tell whether these grey ‘scarecrows’ are the result of past wildfires or of disease. Perhaps both! Sadly I have also seen large patches where trees have been felled, with boughs and parts of their trunks still lying on the bare ground - a silent graveyard! Logging is a big industry here.
Along the tracks there are large and small lakes. When the air was still you could see the reflections of the trees along their shores on the water. Unfortunately it has been almost impossible to photograph the lakes because the train travels at speed most of the time and you come across them so suddenly that by the time you point your camera they have disappeared. And that only works if the lake is on your side and the sun is not shining directly on the very dusty windows.
On top of that the train has no WiFi connection. Along this route there is not even a phone connection. The region is very isolated - we have only seen a few very small settlements along the way - mostly for logging, some only with about 1000 residents or less. We were told we will have a couple of hours in Winnipeg early tomorrow morning whilst the train refuels etc., and we can used the WiFi in the station. So I am getting this post ready in case that works.
In the meantime, I must tell you of the awful incident I experienced when boarding the train at 1 am this morning. I was sent in the wrong direction by the station official and ended up walking into the carriage next to mine. Not realising this, I started to enter the correct numbered room when a couple walked in and told me I was in the wrong room. We compared tickets and I realised that I had to get back to the next carriage. However, the passageways and doorways are so narrow I could barely get back out of the room with my backpack on, let alone go back the way I came, as by now there was a steady stream of people moving forward along the passageway with their luggage.
Suddenly an older man with a German accent who was passing by yelled at me, grabbed me and my backpack and literally yanked me out of the room, shoved me along and kicked my bag along the passageway behind me as hard as he could. I said there was no need to be so rude, I was doing the best I could, and it was a genuine mistake that placed me in this position. He just yelled at me and gave me another shove! In the end I had to walk ahead, get off the train, which was about to leave, and run back to my carriage with my baggage. I just made it! I was already overtired, but by the time I was safely ensconced in my room, such as it is, I was feeling very angry and humiliated. I have never before encountered such rudeness and aggression from another passenger. Usually I have experienced great kindness and courtesy. Interestingly, none of the witnesses to the drama said a word in my defence. The couple in the room did not offer for me to stay in there with them for five minutes until the ‘crocodile line’ had filed past. They just all watched in silence. All I can say is those who were silent and did nothing to assist me were cowards. I most certainly would have spoken out if I had witnessed another passenger being treated like that. And I would have offered a refuge for five minutes. What a shame there were no staff around to deal with it.
When I said ‘my room, such as it is’, I must say I am somewhat shocked at the fairly primitive conditions on the train. It reminds me of what trains were like 40-50 years ago. Most passengers have just a bunk bed behind a curtain - at the upper or lower level. They have to lie on the bed to change their clothes. They have little privacy, and nowhere to safely store their luggage. These beds are in the same carriage as the separate rooms. I am supposed to be travelling ‘Gold Class’ - I have a room, but it is really narrow with a tiny toilet behind the door in a separate little box-like room. (At least there is no snoring man on the order side of that little door, like there was on the train to Paris that unforgettable night long ago!)
There is also a minuscule basin, but for a shower I have to share the one at the end of the passageway. The interior of my little room, which is supposed to accommodate two, is very old and not attractive or particularly clean. When the lower bed is made up into chairs, there is still very little room to move and the old vinyl chairs are most uncomfortable. All-in-all, although there are two small ‘domes’ on the train from which you can see the views from a higher level, albeit through dirty windows, this train is not patch on our great trains in Australia - the Ghan and the Indian-Pacific - in terms of rooms and the lounge and dining room, not to mention the quality and variety of the food. (Even on those you need to travel Gold Class or Platinum Class in a double room or suite to really enjoy the comfort, ambience, dining experience and facilities.)
But back to Ruthin Castle. It was a very old castle with some modern additions, set in lovely tranquil gardens. If I recall correctly, the infamous Sheriff of Nottingham used to stay here.
I wandered around the outside of the castle early the next morning after our medieval banquet, before we set off on the long drive back into England to Stratford-Upon-Avon. As well as some peacocks strutting about, I was intrigued to see some rabbits and squirrels scurrying about in the garden. Some of the photos I took at Ruthin castle are below. I will talk about the interior of the castle in my next post. Photos of my Canadian train experience will come later.
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