Broome - the centre of our pearling industry

The next morning we finally berthed at the pier in Broome. It was really sad saying goodbye to the captain, our guest presenters and really friendly crew, all of whom lined up on deck to shake our hands and wish us well. So very different from departing from a big cruise ship! 

We were taken to a big resort which had everything you could want. It was right on the famous Cable Beach, with its beautiful fine white sands, azure seas and palm trees - a tropical paradise!  And finally we had coverage for our mobile phones, so it was great to catch up with family and friends after ten days of silence. 

Despite the incredible heat, during the day most of us went into the township on buses to explore this incredible, multicultural, historic town with its rich history of the pearling industry that had led to the establishment of the town. In fact, on our cruise we had entered a bay where one of the pearling companies was growing its oysters with their pearls hidden inside. There were many shops selling pearls and pearl jewellery as you might imagine.  Of these, perhaps the most well-known for the quality of its pearls and jewellery is Paspaley Pearls. I visited their shop and was simply stunned by the beauty, size, and varied colours of their pearls. I wished I was a millionaire and could afford some of the magnificent necklaces - especially those with sapphires, rubies and emeralds as well.  Such works of art! Anyhow, they kindly gave me some much-needed cool water and showed me a movie about their company and how they grow and harvest their pearls. Unlike many companies, they do not alter the pearls to make them into artificially shaped perfect spheres. The documentary was truly fascinating! No wonder they are so proud of their pearls. 

Over the road from there was a delightful, aromatic shop that sold sandalwood products made from sandalwood grown in the region. The art of growing sandalwood, which I think is a native of India, is quite incredible. It requires another tree growing beside each sandalwood tree. Unfortunately I cannot remember what species that other tree is. But this has been a huge project in the north and the shop now sells its top quality products all over Australia. I had a lovely time there buying little gifts for friends, including soaps and shampoos and conditioners.

Further down the road I was delighted to see the historic open-air Sun Cinema that was featured in the film 'Australia' that starred Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman. However, in the movie the cinema was portrayed as being located in Darwin! 

When I returned to Cable Beach late that afternoon, hoping to see the parade of camels and their riders that walk along the beach at sunset, I found there were crowds of people right along the pathway overlooking the beach waiting to catch a glimpse of them too.   Unfortunately we had been given the wrong idea of where they would appear from, though at least I managed to get some lovely photos of the sunset. By the time we spotted the camels coming from further down the beach in the opposite direction, they were already off the beach and it was too dark to take their photos. 

However, when I went back there in 2015, I was better prepared, so if you wait until I talk about that trip, you will see some photos of the camels and their incredible parade. 

The next morning, alongside some other guests, I met our wonderful tour director-driver for our 16-day unforgettable, magical APT tour of the Kimberley, and other significant areas. Just one couple from the cruise went on this tour too.  

That tour will be the subject of my next posts.

The port at Broome.

Part of the resort. You needed a map to find your way around! 

The view of Cable Beach from the bistro at the resort.

Cable Beach.

The outdoor cinema.

In Broome. 

Sunset at Cable Beach.

Admiring the sunset from the bistro at the resort.

The Magical Kimberley Coast Part 8 - A wonderful pool then out in the ocean

Goodness - it is just over two weeks since my last post!  Where has all that time gone? Well, I have had just so many commitments . . . I must try to cut them down, if even only a little.

Anyhow, our next memorable moment after seeing the iron mine was visiting a swimming hole along Crocodile Creek. Now that name is enough to put you off swimming there altogether, but apparently the local miners discovered this delightful freshwater pool up on the rocky cliff, and constructed a steel ladder to reach it. So while we had to scurry off the XPlorer straight onto rocks to ensure we were safe from crocodiles, and then had to climb up to the pool, many of our passengers then spend a wonderful time in the cool, clear water. Some scrambled further up the rocky cliffs to take photos of everyone from above, and to see a better view of the area. The colour of the water along the creek itself was spectacular, and the rocks were rich reds and browns, as you will see in the photos.   

The next morning we saw another great sunrise and cruised by and even anchored for a while near the Lacapade Islands. For once we saw long, sandy, flat shores instead of rocky cliffs and escarpments. The most incredible flocks of seabirds flew overhead.  We were told these were mostly brown boobies. They would drift on the air currents then dive into the sea for fish. It was a real treat to see them, because for most of the trip you were very lucky to spot birds because they were so well camouflaged amongst the trees.  

We were now out in the open ocean, which was far less calm than the more protected seas between the island and the coastline. As we searched for whales, I am afraid I felt very seasick over the day, despite taking medication. I survived on dry ginger ale and bland dry biscuits. 

That evening, however we had a wonderful cocktail party on the top deck, followed by a farewell dinner. We were just about at Broome. The sunset was spectacular.  

Starting the trek up to the pool.

Looking back at Crocodile Creek - I think the rope was used to tie up the miners' boats.

The water in Crocodile Creek really was this colour!

The pool.

Past visitors had hung various things from one of the trees. 

Clear water cascading from the pool down into Crocodile Creek.

Looking through the clear water to the colourful rocks below was like seeing an amazing work of art! 

The start of sunrise early the next morning. I was already feeling somewhat queasy.

The sand at the distance it actually was.

I used a zoom as best I could to show the shoreline and the birds. The trouble was that e were travelling at quite a speed past there.

The first sign of civilisation in many days - the outskirts of Broome.

The Magical Kimberley Coast Part 7 - The Horizontal Falls, Sharks and a Huge Iron Mine

We have been enduring another heat wave here. It is unlike Melbourne to be very humid; usually ours is a dry heat, but this time it has been very humid as well, which weather conditions are exhausting, I have to say, especially as there was no relief from the heat at night.   

On the same day we explored Cyclone Creek, we then went back to our ‘mother ship, and were delighted to see tawny nurse sharks swimming around the back of the ship. We took it in turns to stand on the metal platform that is used to raise the XPlorer to see them up close and take their photographs. Apparently they are regular visitors in this region because the ship’s crew give them a feed. 

Just after lunch we travelled around to the Horizontal Falls, which were in Poulton Creek, just little further along Talbot Bay from Cyclone Creek. The rocks in this region are primarily made from a sandstone called Pentecost sandstone,which is simply beautiful. Because this rock is relatively soft, it is thought that the two creeks flowing down from the uplands of the McLarty Range cut through the sandstone through a joint or fault line, creating gaps. When the gap widened sufficiently, tidal waters rushed into them, creating flooded valleys. 

As a great volume of water gets trapped behind the gaps, it rushes out horizontally through the narrow gaps into Talbot Bay at a huge rate (hence the name ‘Horizontal Falls’). It looks like a huge sheet of water!  

Those who wished to took turns entered the first gap on the Zodiacs and then went for the ride of their life along this sheet of water. It was an incredible spectacle to watch. They said it was exhilarating - what an adrenaline rush! This experience is so popular that tourists also travel there directly from Broome to ‘ride’ the water. 

The next morning we went to Nares Point, where we were excited to see some whales in the distance and a sea eagle’s nest on the top of one of the cliffs. Unfortunately we could not see the eagles. We then sailed past Koolan Island, where there is a vast working iron mine and jetty where ships come in to take the ore. In fact, as we sailed past, a Chinese ship was there loading up the ore. The nearby Cockatoo Island apparently contained one of the world’s richest iron ore bodies - it was 97.34 % iron ore. That is incredible! This iron ore was first noticed by pearlers in the 1870s, but the ore was not mined until the 1950s.

Later that day we cruised to an incredible freshwater waterhole. Many of the passengers enjoyed a swim. It was an incredible spot. I will tell you more about that in the next post.    

Some of the tawny nurse sharks.

The first set of Horizontal Falls. There are more further inland.  It is hard to realise how rapidly the water is flowing.

All I could capture of the whales. 

It was hard to capture a photo of the mine as the ship was some distance away and travelling at quite a speed. You can see how tiny the trees looked. The trucks making their way slowly along the declines appeared very tiny too. 

Loading up the ore. 

The ship from the other end.

The rich red colour is the iron ore. 

The sea eagles' nest.